Jeans were, first and foremost, a happy accident.
In 18th century Nimes, France, residents attempted to replicate an Italian material entitled
“serge.” The result was named after “serge de Nimes,” coining the shorthand for what we today call “denim.” Denim was–and is–incredibly durable and was utilized as workwear. During the California Gold Rush of the 19th century, the necessity of long-lasting workwear became especially apparent, as miners needed a material that wouldn’t easily rip or tear during laborious hours.
In 1872, a tailor named Jacob Davis bought denim strips off of Levi Strauss, a wholesale fabric house owner in San Francisco. While the fabric was durable, his worker clients noted that the pockets tore easily–many were utilizing their pockets to store gold ore from the mines at the time. Davis ideated inserting copper rivets into the pockets and at the fly base in order to solidly connect all the fabric pieces together and make a sturdier garment. Davis wrote to Strauss about funding a patent so the two could go into business together, and the business as we know it thus took off, with Davis heading production and design and Strauss responsible for manufacturing in his San Franciscan textile factory.
The two businessmen soon decided to dye denim blue with natural indigo because it interacted well with cotton. While the majority of dyes usually penetrated the cotton’s fibers, indigo was able to attach solely to the fabric’s surface, making the color an obvious choice for denim. While their denim was available in brown duck and blue denim, 1890 saw the invention of the Levi 501s, which in turn popularized blue denim as the go-to fabric for jean pants. Worn by gold rushers and cowboys alike, denim very quickly became the gold standard–no pun intended–for workers.
Design changes and improvements were steadily made over the course of the following decade. The timing was right–the turn of the century hailed a national desire for new clothing styles and better workwear that coincided with the industrial revolution. Davis and Strauss started their editing process by removing the metal rivet from the bottom of the pant fly, as many cowboys and workers had complained of it heating and causing a burn. By 1920, denim trousers led the popularity contest in men’s workwear. Double-arched orange stitching was added for additional reinforcement and branding identification–indeed, today orange-stitched Levis are coveted among vintage and denim lovers. In 1922 belt loops were added, thus accommodating additional sizing and making non-custom manufacturing all the more possible for Strauss and Davis. By 1954, zippers sometimes replaced the button fly and while the jeans remained classic, many changes and alterations rendered them vastly different from the original patent.
Strauss and Levi’s patent had technically ended back in 1890, and other manufacturers thus jumped on the bandwagon to produce their own versions of denim trousers. OshKosh B’Gosh came to fruition in 1895. Blue Bell–known today as Wrangler–made its mark beginning in 1904. Lee Mercantile–known today simply as “Lees,” followed shortly after in 1911. In fact, Lee Union-Alls jeans became the standard-issued pant for all war workers. This occurred again during World War II, where we saw figures such as Rosie the Riveter in a denim jumpsuit.
Denim had come to represent labor, durability, and human camaraderie, as it was both manufactured and worn by working-class folks.
Denim wasn’t all hammers and mines, though; Hollywood glamorized denim with the rise of Western movies and cowboy archetypes played by desired actors like Gary Cooper and John Wayne, both of whom rose in household popularity in the 1920s and 30s. Middle and upper class consumers purchased denim as attractive, sturdy leisurewear for holidays or weekends away. Around this time, Vogue dubbed denim as “Western chic,” solidifying its place in fashion history. Denim was further popularized as a household textile that suited women as well. For example, athletic and tactical-wear designer Claire McCardell’s creation of the Popover wrap denim dress sold close to 80,000 units in 1942. The dress was marketed towards housewives and women and had a specific attachment and pocket for oven mitts. The Popover dress took denim from outerwear work garb and into the home, where its benefits could be utilized by stay-at-homes in a way that simultaneously promoted glamor and labor. Actresses like Ginger Rogers and Carole Lombard were often photographed wearing jeans, and the material thus grew in popularity among women as well.
By the 1960s, denim’s reputation had changed and shifted, and jeans came to be synonymous with counterculture, rebellion, and an anti-establishment attitude. James Dean and Marlon Brando, for example, popularized the imagery of sex-appealing denim. Rockstars made denim feel cool and unique, while hippies, anti-war individuals, and feminists wore jeans throughout the 60s and 70s as a way to represent and support the working class and to demonstrate gender equity, as jeans had a fairly less gendered reputation compared to many other garments.
Jeans’ countercultural symbolism resulted in their being banned from some high schools, and as we know, the denim illegality of Cold War USSR. Denim maintained its association with workherhood, the underdog, and rebellion despite its simultaneous takeoff into the fashion world.
Italian luxury brand Fiorucci introduced the Buffalo 70 jeans in the 1970s, marketing them as high fashion. They were dark wash, skin-tight, and very inaccessible–completely unlike the flared and faded denim the country was used to. The Buffalo 70s became a staple among the gay fashion community, showing up aplenty in iconic queer party spaces such as Studio 54.
Denim as we know it today arose in 1976, when Calvin Klein introduced blue jeans during a runway show, making him the very first designer to showcase denim on the high fashion catwalk. Gloria Vanderbilt introduced her hit denim in 1979 and jeans became immensely commercially successful. By the 1980s, Calvin Klein had popularized denim in a racier, sexier light, featuring supermodels posing topless and sultry for ads, including Brook Shields, Claudia Schiffer, and Kate Moss. Guess did the same, with 1990s high fashion houses such as Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, and Dior hopping on in the 1990s to quickly follow suit. In their best-of-both-worlds of high fashion and workwear, blue jeans officially held a spot as both seductive and practical, highly desirable and coveted, yet accessible and easy to wear all the same.
The 1990s hip-hop and teen milieu saw a rise in low-slung, oversized baggy denim, with the billowy silhouette becoming synonymous with popular music culture. Y2K saw a big love
for blinged-out jeans, flared silhouettes, and sandblasted whiskered styles like Diesel offered. The mid 2010s gave black skinny jeans a cult following, and today, all sorts of styles have surged in popularity as well, with baggier designs making a comeback and in-between bootcuts maintaining their clout.
Today in 2022, most brands and luxury labels have showcased denim on the runway, and jeans are widely available at high-end price points and low as well. Yves Saint Laurent perhaps said it best when he spoke to New York Magazine in 1983. “I have often said that I wish I had invented blue jeans. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity—all that I hope for in my clothes.”
Today, we seek to embody all of these traits in Agave Denim, opting for classic cuts, rich colors, and unique, meticulous design that highlights the many denim styles that have risen in popularity since Davis and Strauss first created their meteoric jeans. We strive to honor the history of denim and bring in new elements to constantly innovate while harkening back to our roots. The result is undeniable quality, accompanied by a pair of jeans that live boldly and permanently in your closet.
We do things a little differently at Agave - in fact we do things in a completely unique way:
Our denim is designed, cut, and sewn in the America. We source the best domestic made denim fabric including Cone Denim. Making some of our denim 100% All-America - just how you want them!
Our jeans are hand finished domestically. Each jean is unique and has properties unique to that pair - no two are identical. We get a lot of message about our products being out of stock. We do our best to keep your favorites in stock. But this a product of our dedication to hand finishing. Due to our commitment to craft, our restocks can take a little longer. You can't rush perfection. You can however be notified of our restocks on any product.
]]>All denim is made of dyed denim yarn and white denim yarn woven together.
This is how Agave Denim is able to achieve the soft hues of blue in all of our jeans. By adding a little bit of flex to every weave we're able to achieve that little bit of stretch every Agave Man loves.
The first pair of brass rivet re-enforced denim pants were sold in Nevada in 1837 during the Gold Rush. Although our rivet re-enforced 5 pocket jeans are pretty tough, we don't recommend them for gold prospecting. They are however the gold standard for a perfect for a day out, lunch with your loved one, or a quiet afternoon at home.
]]>Since the 1800's jeans were made with a total of 4 pockets: 2 in the front, a small front right pocket for a pocket watch (high fashion at the time) and a back right pocket.
So which pocket was added?
Starting in the early 1900's denim companies add a 5th pocket to the back left of their reliable blues. Securing them with rivets for added durability and creating the 5 pocket jean we all know and love today.
Until recently, this 5th pocket was little used, mainly giving added-durability as an extra layer and a symmetrical look. Most men would agree the back left pocket of their jeans is the least-utilized of all of their denim. Today, the left pocket is experiencing a rise in popularity as a perfect spot for the modern man's pocket watch - the smartphone.
The best of the best - always dressed right. Casual Friday's, dinner with his wife on Saturday night, or a sleepy Sunday in the back yard, @manonadime always shows us how he likes to wear his favorite Agave denim jeans and Agave tees with other favorites from his wardrobe.
If you are looking for some wardrobe inspiration, check him out (we always do!)
]]>No. 11 Classic Tweed River Rinse
The Japanese tradition of washing cotton in indigo blue dye is well documented since the 1600's however the craft dates as far back as the 8th century.
Our No. 11 Classic Tweed River Rinse refers to the centuries old Japanese tradition of rinsing the blue indigo dye in a river (not practiced anymore today because of ecological concerns) and harkens back to the way traditional indigo jeans were made.
The fabric is 100% Japanese Cotton Denim and dyed with the traditional Japanese Indigo Blue dye - no fade, no sanding, no whiskers - just indigo blue in it's purest form. This jean is finished with our Agave California Gold thread - the confluence of past and present.
This is a limited production jean due to the incredibly labor intensive process and traditional dyes used.
]]>The Candiani Denim Mill has been making fine denim since 1938. For the past 82 years, this family owned and run denim mill produces some of the world's finest and softest luxury denim fabric.
When we needed to find the highest quality luxury denim, we went straight to Candiani.
When you wanted a luxury well made jean, you came straight to Agave!
]]>Everyone wants to live a good life, but what does it really mean?
At AGAVE, we believe the key to a happy and fulfilling life has always been and will always be perspective.
From our perspective, intention matters. Intention is behind everything we do, every decision we make, from fabric to fit and stitch to seam. It’s the thread of our brand.
From our perspective, maintaining a steady energy through times of tumult is key to survival.
That’s why we stick to our values, no matter what. You won’t see much departure in our aesthetic. Improvements, yes. New colors and cuts, yes. But AGAVE’s commitment to quality, durability, and comfort through laid back luxury is unwavering. From our perspective, focusing on the essentials will never fail you.
In the business of menswear, that means pieces that are tried and true, fabrics that suit the way you like to feel, colors and patterns that feel like you, and ones that push your envelope, just a bit.
Whatever the good life means to you, live it.
]]>First: Choose the fit you’re most comfortable in, from slim to relaxed. The waistband should sit right at your hip, about an inch or two below your belly button. Ensure the crotch is not too snug and the hem is not too long. Next: the wash. Darker washes tend to have a slimming and formal effect, while a lighter wash is more casual. Pair with your favorite tee, sweater, blazer — truly, anything goes.
The beauty of denim is in its versatility. It quite simply goes with everything. It is our world’s go-to casual pant with the ability to become formal in a darker wash, paired with a sportcoat or button-down. At AGAVE Denim, we offer a range of washes, some with hand sanding for added texture.
Current menswear trends put the ideal fit somewhere between super-skinny and very relaxed. You want room to move and breathe, without swimming in cloth. Decide if you prefer a classic straight leg or more tapered, for a young stylish edge.
The hem can fall anywhere between your ankle (more of a summer look for the sartorial set) or to your shoe, any point above the heel. You don’t want it dragging on the ground. This not only compromises the fabric, which frays, but has a very unpolished look and feel. A quick fix: the cuff.
Are you a cuff guy? Cuffing your jeans adds a casual stylistic touch, while solving a long hem instantly. One fold or two — try both to see which feels right. Just don’t roll.
Denim is durable. Its sturdy structure makes it a mainstay across industries and styles. Ideally, however, it's sourced from a quality mill. All AGAVE denim comes from the finest Italian and Japanese denim mills. Skimp on fabric and your jeans won’t last (or look very good).
The most important part of the denim-wearing science, however, is not to think too much about it. This fashion staple is fool-proof and not going out of style any time soon. You just gotta know what you like. And invest in quality.
]]>Unless you’re heading to the tropics, packing for fall travel can be...confusing. You can check the weather all you want, but you just don’t know if it will be a cool, breezy 64* or a blazing-hot-in-the-sun 64*. Plus — we all know you can never trust the forecast. But with a few key transitional pieces, you can travel across these fifty states and beyond in style, and without want or lack.
You remember our one-pair-weekend challenge, yes? Well, it still holds! If you’re only gone for a couple days, one pair of quality denim is all you need. For this season, we suggest our Big Drakes in the fit and wash of your choice. Traveling for a full week? Throw in the Catalina Cord for versatility, style and lightness for when September feels more like summer or spring.
Ok, that was easy. Now time for the top half.
Don’t overthink it. A weekend trip calls for two tees — in case it's warm both days, one long-sleeve for when September delivers on its fall promises, and a jacket—for cool nights and unpredictably chilly days. Our ideal line-up: The all-purpose Aviation Tee, Agave Supima Polo for an elevated look, the Aero Slub to handle any modest breeze, and the Trail Blaze jacket to match anything and everything.
Staying longer? Throw in a third tee and an extra long-sleeve. One jacket is still all you need.
As for the rest of your duffel? That’s up to you. But may we suggest ample socks and undies, a bare essentials approach to toiletries, and a good book.
]]>ROAD TRIP READY
There’s nothing we love more than getting out of town—and our comfort zones—to explore the great outdoors—or indoors! Just something new. Different. Break up our everyday routines to feast our eyes on something else and get our boots dirty with a different dust. Business or pleasure, there’s something invigorating about throwing your favorite bare essentials in a duffel, popping the trunk, and taking your wheels for a ride.
But what to pack? How do you want to feel when you’re ripe for inspiration? First Rule: Pack Light.
We’re a fan of the One-Pair Weekend Challenge (yeah, we made that up). But really, one pair of durable dark denim is all you need for a quick trip. At AGAVE, denim is our specialty. You know you’re getting quality and strength in the fabric and weave. Once you determine your ideal fit, you’re getting ultimate comfort as well. These jeans (or any for that matter) don’t need regular washing. In fact, please don’t do that. They’ll improve with every wear without weakening it's construction.
For this getaway, the No.30 Modern Fit Draper Stretch Selvage is the perfect pick. Dark enough for an elevated evening look, and just too good to be too dark for anything.
Ok, that was easy. But what to pair with it? Don’t go overboard. A tee or two, a long-sleeve layer and you should be set. Jacket optional. The AGAVE Supima Tee is the ideal tee. Simple, of course, and softer than you can imagine. It manages to give a plain t-shirt the look of supreme composure, with plenty of colors to choose from. Throw in the Osprey for an option with a bit more character, but the same ease, softness, and dependable design.
A hoodie is just smart. And our White Water Recycled Hoodie is light enough to not take over your bag, with a no-fuss design you’ll feel ready for anything in. A full-zip eliminates the overly casual feel of a pullover hoodie. You know what else feels good? We used 100% recycled yarn throughout. Paired with all of the above, and there’s nothing standing in the way of you and adventure.
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This resilient fabric is twice as strong as the cotton you’re used to, able to resist pulling and tearing to maintain its form. It’s also softer, and only gets softer with time, wear and wash. Finer fibers yield better dye-absorption for longer lasting color and brilliance.
It's signature extra-long staple fiber is what ensures these qualities for a luxurious feel. That’s why AGAVE chooses to use Supima cotton throughout its product line.
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Directly imported raw cotton and self-manufactured yarns enable stability and quality throughout. With 110 years of indigo-dying experience, Kaihara continues to develop and fine-tune their technique for the finest dyes on the finest denim. Their multi-patented proprietary rope-dyeing machine has advanced the entire denim industry.
Then, we took a sturdy 11.5 oz indigo-dyed stretch denim—98% cotton, 2% polyurethane— and hand-sanded it. Our commitment to 3x1 right-hand construction means our denim is crafted carefully and in line with the top manufacturing standards. A stonewash adds softness only durable denim can handle, slightly fading our dark, rich indigo for a vintage look and rugged feel. The result: Winchester Flex, available in every AGAVE denim fit.
HERE'S THE THING, GUYS: This beloved Mill is no longer producing this cloth. So get these jeans while you can, before they're gone for good–– in fact, buy a couple dozen pairs to last you and all the men in your world a lifetime.
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